Threads of History: The Legacy of Fred Leighton and Greenwich Village Fashion
Like architecture, literature, and art, fashion is yet another entryway into the past. To understand what we once wore is to embody what we once believed, cared for, and prioritized. For example, the loose fitting smock-styled tunics and silhouettes of the 1920s signify a direct rebellion from more restrictive Victorian era clothing like corsets and full length dresses. Shopping vintage and second hand is not only sustainable but offers a story to the wearer.
Luckily for us, our neighborhood is chock full of curated vintage stores, all of which are packed with antique, rare pieces (with each piece having its own unique history). About a week ago, I was shopping at one of these stores, Cure Thrift at 91 3rd Avenue, and came across a beautiful ivory vintage prairie gown, presumably from the 1960s or early 70s. But underneath the dress’ white lace and handsewn embroidery was an old paper tag, stitched with the words “Fred Leighton, 177 McDougal St, NYC.”
While spelled incorrectly (for reasons unknown), I realized the connection this dress had with Greenwich Village and MacDougal Street and was compelled to learn more. Join us and travel back a few decades to learn more about the origins of this tag.
177 MacDougal Street
About a block away from the northwest corner of Washington Square Park, where MacDougal Street meets West 8th Street, sits 177 MacDougal Street. Originally a Greek Revival house built in 1834, the building was reconstructed into a five-story apartment complex in 1875. And over the course of the next hundred years, the northern tail of MacDougal St. underwent many transformations, mirroring the changing times and evolving bohemian culture that simultaneously ricocheted throughout the rest of Greenwich Village and lower Manhattan.
By the mid-twentieth century, a storefront emerged on the bottom floor of 177 MacDougal, and Fred Leighton, a small shop that sold Mexican arts and crafts, occupied the space. In 1959, Murray Mondschein, son of a Bronx cab driver, purchased the store and opened what was to become one of the most recognizable vintage and antique jewelry sellers in the world. Mr. Mondschein kept the store’s name from the previous owner and, due to the store’s exponentially growing popularity, he assumed Fred Leighton as his name as well (legally changing it from Mondschein in 1986).
Shortly after the shop opened on MacDougal, Leighton temporarily expanded the business beyond antique jewelry, adding silver jewelry from Mexico and Indigenous populations as well as wedding gowns to the shop’s selections. Much of his early work and designs borrowed inspiration from Mexican heritage and 1960s fashion trends—vibrant colors, lots of lace, and long prairie dresses.
But after a jewelry dealer offered him some Victorian pieces and Leighton saw what they were worth, he reimagined the trajectory of his business and zeroed in on sourcing and reselling antique pieces. By the 1970s, Leighton moved his store uptown to a few locations on Madison Avenue, and grew into one of the city’s most acclaimed and established jewelers, dressing starlets like Sophia Loren, Lupita Nyong’o, and Nicole Kidman.
Fred Leighton sold his company in 2006 and passed away in July 2017. And while he stepped away from the jewelry world professionally in his final years, he never strayed too far. Today, we’re still reminded of his sparkling and shimmering impact through photographs, art-deco styled jewels, and, of course, vintage paper tags. Over time, Fred Leighton’s journey reflected the ever-changing spirit of Greenwich Village, evolving from a small shop on MacDougal Street into a celebrated brand, all while remaining rooted in the bohemian energy and artistic heritage that defined the neighborhood.